St Mary's Forane Church at Kanjoor, in Aluva, is located on the banks of the River Periyar in Ernakulam district. Nestled amidst the serene surroundings of Kanjoor, this spiritual abode is one of the most popular pilgrim centres in Kerala.
History and Architecture
Built in 1001 AD, this ancient church is renowned for its unique blend of Indian architecture, Persian design, and Portuguese artistry.
Spectacular mural paintings adorn the main altar and walls of the church. Some of the paintings in the altar are repainted versions of Jesus Christ and Mother Mary, Last Supper, Visitation, and Archangel Gabriel’s Revelation. Lord Abraham, Noah, Melchisedech, the Ten Commandments to Moses adorn the side wall.
The twelve-foot-high Elephant Gate, the entry point to the church, is majestic. Tipu Sultan's attack and the Portuguese army’s resistance are depicted on either side of the gate.
The church, dedicated to Saint Sebastian, who is locally known as the ‘Kanjoor Punnyalan’ (Saint of Kanjoor) in local parlance, has a rare, antique and valuable collection of manuscripts, books and paintings.
The single-stone granite cross, the majestic and grandiose main door, the baptismal font made out of a single stone sculpted in the shape of a lotus, the epitaph in Vattezhuthu (the old form of Malayalam script), the ancient and invaluable documents written on Thaliyola (palm leaves) and several other historical relics speak volumes about the greatness of the church.
Legends and Folklore
The revered St. Mary’s Church stand as a testament to history and folklore where the divine power of the church converges with the remarkable stories of Tipu Sultan and Shakthan Thampuran.
During Tipu Sultan’s military campaign against the Portuguese, many locals sought refuge in the church seeking protection. It is believed that the church and the intercession of St. Mary protected the people from the ravages of war.
Legend is that even Shakthan Thampuran, the powerful ruler of Cochin, was a devotee of the Kanjoor church. Local folklore is that once the King of Cochin was taking his royal entourage through the village and he found a man blocking the entrance to the church. The infuriated King ordered the gateway to be demolished. When he returned to the palace, he found his own palace gate being razed to the ground by an elephant owned by him. Sensing divine fury in his act, the King offered an elephant-shaped lamp as a form of atonement to the church.
This lamp is paraded during the festivals at the church.
Festivals
The Feast of the St. Sebastian at St. Mary's Church is a big event that attracts thousands of devotees from all faiths. Held from January 10-27 every year, special holy masses mark the beginning of celebrations, followed by special prayers and Novenas held in honour of St. Sebastian, the patron saint known for his courage and faith. Offerings range from flowers to candles and gold to silver.
The church and its surroundings come alive during the festival with traditional music and elaborate rituals, creating an atmosphere of joyous reverence. A grand procession is the highlight of the feast. The procession carrying the blessed Ambu (Arrow) through the streets is the main ritual. Festive decorations, ornamental umbrellas, fireworks, choir singing, and traditional music bands, make the occasion colourful. The festival comes to a crescendo on January 27.
Connectivity, accommodation
Kanjoor town is easily accessible by air and rail. The nearest airport is Nedumbassery Airport and the nearest railway station is Aluva. There are several hotels, guest houses, resorts and homestays available near Kanjoor. The best time to visit Kanjoor is during the winter months from October to March when the weather is pleasant and suitable for sightseeing.
Kanjoor St. Mary's Forane Church with its rich cultural heritage stands as a beacon of faith, drawing travellers to explore its religious and cultural heritage.
As a travel destination, it offers spiritual solace as well as a visual feast during the celebrations. The church is must-visit in South India for the discerning traveller, and a pilgrimage centre for the faithful.
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